Button-sewing machine



A. F. FIFIELD.

BUTTON SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION mm JAN-15.1917.

Patented Mar. 29, 1921.

3 SHEETSSHEEI l.

/ TTORNEY A. F. FIFIELD.

BUTTON SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JAN-15.1917. 1,373,227, Patented Mar. 29, 1921.

3 SHEETS-SHEEI 2.

INVENTO R BY I q W W3 ATTORNEY A. F. FIFIELD.

BUITON SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JAN. 15, I917.

Patented Mar. 29, 1921.

3 SHEETS-SHEEI 3.

ATTORNEY entree sraras arena orrrcao ALBERT 1E. FIFIELD, 0F NEWARK, NEWJERSEY, 'ASSIGNOR TO THE SINGER MANU- FACTURING COMPANY, A CORPORATIONOF NEW JERSEY.

BUTTON-SEWING MACHINE.

saaeea.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Mar. 2Q, 1921.

Application filed January 15, 1917. Serial No. 142,413.

and useful Improvements in Button-Sewing Machines, of which thefollowing is a specification, reference being had therein to theaccompanying drawings.

My invention relates broadly to a sewing machine having a stop mechanismfor arresting its operation after a predetermined number of stitcheshave been made. Machines of this type are usually employed forbuttonholing or barring or for sewing articles such as buttons to agarment and the configuration of the stitches is predetermined by aworlnclamping mechanism having suitable jogging or traveling movementsimparted thereto from a controller cam.

An object of my invention is to equip machines of this type withimplements insuring the formation of stitches, insuring their formationas tight at the beginning as at the end of a cycle of operations, andinsuring the severance'of the thread-ends close to the under side of thebody-fabric, thereby increasing the durability as well as enhancing theappearance of the finished product.

It is concerned with a machine for performing these functions which willbe simple but reliable in action; reliable in severing the thread andreliable in holding the severed end of the thread so that subsequentlyformed stitches will be tight. It is further concerned with the amountof thread used and aims to consume as little as possible while attainingcertainty of operation.

In its preferred construction the machine 7 is provided beneath thethroat-plate with a the movable shear-blade, is slightly to the rear ofthe edge of the nipper. The bellcrank 1s actuated from a slide-rodextendlng parallel with the looper-shaft below the bed-plate of themachine and actuated by a lever pivoted above the bed-plate adjacent thecontroller-cam from peripheral projections on which the said nipperdetalner and movable shear-blade are advanced in a two-stage movement atthe beginning of the sewing operation and the nipper and movableshear-blade are retracted after a few stitches have been made. lhe firststage of the above mentioned movement engages a thread-detainer looselywith the thread end which has been pulled through the work by the looperduring the first reciprocation of the needle and deflects it to one sideacross the cutting edge of a ledgerblade fixed to the throat-plate andunderlying both the nipper and movable shear-blade which have beenadvanced at the same time, the nipper having a notch for positioning theneedle-thread preliminary to its being gripped. The second stage ofmovement further advances the nipper, detainer and knife simultaneouslyto effect a gripping of the beginning end of the thread against the.throat-plate followed immediately by a severance and seizure of theextreme end of the thread by the movable shear-blade anddetainerrespectively, the latter gripping the waste end of threadagainst the fixed shear-r blade. After enough stitches have been made toanchor the beginning end of the thread the nipper and movableshear-blade are returned to their starting position, the detainer,however, continuing to hold the waste end of the thread clear of thesubsequent stitching throughout a cycle of operations being thenreturned to starting position as hereinafter described. The secondcutting mechanism, in the form of a knife, is carried by abellcrank-lever which is actuated through a slide-bar located beneaththe bed-plate by the overthrow of the stop mechanism with which themachine is provided. The overthrow advances the knife against the limbof thread leading to the material and severs it close thereto and theusual return of the stop mechanism to its normal vertical positionreturns the knife to starting position. When the knife is advanced tosever the thread thethread-end detainer is returned to startingposition.

While the invention is applicable to machines of various types it isparticularly adaptable to single chain-stitch machines for attachingarticles to a body-fabrlc and 1s therefore shown herein embodied in a.singlethread chain-stitch machine for sewing on buttons.

The invention further consists in certain details of constructionwhichwill appear in the following description of the devlce shown in theaccompanying drawings,.1n which Figure 1 is a rear side elevation of themachine; Fig. 2 is a bottom plan View of the machine the parts beingshown in starting position; Figs. 3, 4 and 5 are vlews of the T-leverand the throat-plate with the nipper, movable shear-blade, detainer andknife shown in the relative positions they occupy during their first,second and return stages of movement; Figs. 6 and 7 are spective viewsof the detainer and the bellcrank-lever supporting the nipper andmovable shear-blade'; Fig. 8 is a perspective V ew of apin-block; Fig. 9shows the mechanism with the thread as it appears at the completion ofthe second stage of movement after it has been nipped against thethroatplate; F ig. 10 is a perspective vlew of the throat-plate showingthe nipper and movable shear-blade in the position mentioned in Fig-9;and Fig. 11 is a perspective view of the knife for cutting the threadfrom the pp y- The invention is. shown applied to a chainstitch machinehaving a needle 1 and cooperating under thread mechanism consisting of anon-thread carrying looper 2 and a needle-guard 3. The needle-threadpasses from the supply through a constant tension,

device 4 to a clamp 5 which grips the thread when the needle-bar eye 6,constituting a take-up immediately adjacent the clamp, acts to set thestitch. The clamp 5 is intermittently actuated by a cam 7 on theneedlebar operating shaft 8 through a plunger-pin 9 in a manner wellunderstood in the art.

The construction and operation of the looper 2 and loop-h0lding spur 10are fully set forth in prior Patents Nos. 1,147,386 and 1,153,429,issued July 20, 1915 and September 14, 1915, respectively and referencemay be had thereto for a full understanding of the same as specificallythey form no part of the present lnvention and therefore require nodetailed description.

A Work-clamping mechanism 11 to which suitable jogging movements areimparted from a controller-cam 12, may be employed to hold an articlesuch as a button. While any suitable adjusting mechanism for eliminatingone of the component movements of the work-clamping mechanism andthereby changing from a four-hole to a two-hole button may be used, suchbeing old expe dients in the art, that shown-in the drawings at 13 ispreferred and the construction thereof is fully described in my pendingapplica- 'tion Serial No. 100,804, filed May 31, .1916.

The elements acting upon the beginning end of the needle-thread at thecommencement of a cycle of operations comprise a nipper 19, a-"m'ovableshear-blade 20 an'da detainer 40, all of which are constructedpreferably of sprin steel, are located below the throat-plate o themachine, and are actuated. solely from projections on the periphery ofthe controller-cam excepting the return movement of the detainer tostarting position which return movement is governed by the overthrow ofa suitable stopping mechanism.

As shown in Fig. 10, there is pivoted on a stud 15 depending from withina shallow recess 16 in the throat-plate 16 and bored at 15' to receive aivot pin 142 to be described later, a bellcr'ani; 14 provided with aseat 17 in which are secured by a screw 18 the nipper 19 and the movableshear-blade 20 in superimposedrelation. The nipper is arranged next tothe throat-plate against which it grips the thread, while the movableshear-blade lies below the nipper with its cutting edge 21 slightly tothe rear of a notch 22 in thenipper. A fixed ledger-blade 23 isadjustably secured to the throat-plate by means of a screw 24 and slot25 and extends'in the direction in which the nipper and movable bladeare moved. Thisfixed ledger-blade is provided with a shearing edge 26(Fig. 9) for cooperation with the cutting edge of the movable blade anditis also provided with an extension 27 which underlies both the nipperand the movable blade, being adapted to augment the spring pressure ofthe nipper and movable blade upward against the lower face of thethroatplate. A pin or friction roll 28, see Fig. 3, carried by one endof the bellcrank 14 is engaged by the forked end 30 of an arm 31 clampedby screw 32 to a slide-rod 33 ar- 0 ranged below thebed-plate of themachine. The opposite end of the slide-rod is pinned at 34,'see Fig. 1,to the vertical leg 35' of a lever 35 which rocks in a vertical planeabout a fulcrum screw 36 in a bracket 37 secured on the upper face ofthe bed-plate in juxtaposition to the periphery of the controller-cam12. The lever 35 is T-shaped, as clearly shown in Fig. 1, and itsfulcrum lies substantially at the junction of the vertical leg with thetwo offset horizontal arms 35 and 35, which are inclined upwardly fromthe fulcrum of the lever. Fixed to the vertical leg 35' of the T-leverbelow the cloth-plate is a pin 135 adapted to engage the convex surfaceof a bow S in a flat spring S adjustably secured to the clothplate inany suitable manner as indicated at S. By this means the slide-rod 33 isheld against movement excepting when positively actuated by camsoperating upon the arms 35? and 35 of the T-lever. These cams orprojections indicated at A and B and arslide-rod and actuating thenipper and movable shear-blade. It will be noticedFigs. 3, 4 and 5-thata cam A is formed with an incline A which merges into a concentric dwellportion A at the end of which is a shoulder A", while cam B has only onebeveled or inclined face B. The former moves the vertical leg of theT-lever to advance the nipper and movable blade in two stages while thelatter moves the leg back to return them in a single stage movement tostarting.

position. The cams A and B are adjustably secured to the controller-cam12 by any suitable means such as the old and common slot and screwindicated at 38.

As shown in Figs. 2 and 6 a detainer 40 is clamped by a' screw 41 to theshort arm 42 of an L-shaped lever 42 which is pivoted by a pin 142intermediate the ends of its long arm 42 coaXially with the bellcrank 14carrying the nipper and movable blade. At the free end of the lon arm 42a pin 42 is mounted to frictionadly rub against the crook 43 formed in aflat spring 44 adjustably secured in an suitable manner to the frame ofthe machine, preferably, as shown, by the clip angle 45, slot and screw46. As shown most clearly in Figs. 35 the detainer is moved in onedirection, by a depending lug 14 carried by the bellcrank 14 andengaging the long arm 42 of the L-shaped lever 42, when the bellcrank isactuated to advance the nipper and movable shearblade at the beginningof a cycle of operations. It is moved in the opposite direction, fromthe position shown in Fig. 5 to that shown in Fig. 2, by a bulge orenlargement 47 adjacent the bifurcated end 48 of a slidebar 49 when thelatter isreciprocated by the overthrow of a stop mechanism at the end ofa cycle of operations, the said bulge or enlargement swiping a secondpin 42" fixed to the long arm of the L-shaped lever 42 carrying. thedetainer.

A single element acts on the finishing end of the needle-thread at theclose of a cycle of operations. This element, a knife, severs the threadfrom the supply. The knifeblade 50, Fig. 11, is L-shaped and its cuttingedge 50' is formed on a depending flange 50 at its free end while itsopposite end is suitably secured to a bellcrank-lever 51 pivoted on apin 52Fig. 8-extending up wardly from block 52 which is fixedly securedto the throat-plate by means of a clamp-screw 52 passed through the hole53 therein, said pin being steadied by fitting it to a hole 54 also inthe throat-plate Fig.

10. A pin'55, carried by the end of the bellcrank-lever 51 opposite tothat to which the knife is secured, is embraced by the bifurcation 48 inthe bent end of the slide-bar 49 which is slidably supported in suitableguideways 56 on the bottom of the bed-plate of the machine. Thisslide-bar is reeiprocated by the overthrow of a stop mechanism.

The stop mechanism with which the machine is provided is arranged at therear end of the machine. Such devices are old. and well known, thatshownbeing similar in its essentials to the construction shown in patent toBarron, No. 1,093,241, of April 14, 1914. As is well known, when one ofseveral tripping points, not shown, engages a latchlever 61, Fig. 1,during the last descent of the needle, a vibratory lever 62 pivoted at63 is released by said latch-lever and allowed to move under the actionof a flat spring 64 in a direction to carry its upper end, in which iscontained a spring-pressed plunger 65, into engagement with a stop-cam66 on the needle-bar operating shaft 8. The vibratory lever 62 isconfined yieldingly against one of the spaced flanges 67 of the bracket68 by means of a transverse plunger-rod 69 pocketed in the socketbearing boss 70 containing a butter-spring, not shown. When the plunger65 is engaged with the stop-cam 66 to lock the machine against furtherrotation the momentum of the moving parts is taken up and the jarreduced by the transverse plungerrod 69 and buffer-spring which permitan overthrow of the stopping mechanism. This overthrow, as beforementioned, imparts a horizontal reciprocation to theslide-bar 49,through the bellcrank 49' pivoted at 49 below the bed-plate, and therebyactuates the knife to cut the thread from the supply at the end of acycle of operations and simultaneously returns the detainer to itsinitial starting position. The knife of course is returned to itsinitial position by the action of the buflenspring in righting thevibratory lever 62.

From the foregoing description of the device the operation will beobvious. During the first reciprocation of the needle, the thread end ispulled through to the under side of the work-plate'by the rotatinglooper. As the needle completes its first upward reciprocation thehorizontal arm 35 of the T-lever engages the incline A of a cam A andimparts the first stage of movement to the nipper and movableshear-blade, the detainer 40 being compelled to move therewith by thelug 14 carried by the bellcrank. EITQhe parts then are in the positionsshown in The hooked end of the detainer defines a recess 40 which isslightly larger than that in the nipper but is in substantialregistration therewith. As these members partake of their first stage ofmovement the hook of the detainer deflects the beginning end of thethread to one side of the path of the needle and this deflectiontogether withv a diagonal jogging movement of the work ho1ding mechanisminsures the loose inclosure or confinement of the thread on all sides bythe edge of the needle-hole 16" in the throat-plate and by the recess 22in the nipper preliminary to a gripping o eration which is therebyrendered certain o accomplishment. The first stage of movement given thenipper, movable blade and detainer is completed shortly after the needlestarts down on its second descent. The needle completes its. seconddescent and rises and the thread below the throat-plate is pulled up bythe action of the take-up and intermittent thread-clamp 5 so as to leavean end about i of an inch long. When the needle is about-i of an inchfrom the end of its second up-stroke, the shoulder A of a cam A engagesthe horizontal arm 35 of the T-lever and imparts the second stage ofmovement to the bell crank 14 thereby causing the nipper 19 to grip thethread against the throat-plate and, mmediately thereafter orsubstantially simultaneously, the movable shear-blade 20 and detainer 40cooperate with the fixed ledger-blade to cut and hold the surplus lengthof the thread end. The parts at this time are in the relative positionshown in Fig. 4. When the thread is nipped or just before that time theintermittent clamp 5 is opened. After sufiicient stitches have beenformed to anchor the thread, and there is no further reason for holdingthe end thereof, the nipper and movable blade are returned to startingposition bythe incline B of cam B WhlCh is engaged with the other arm 35to rock the T-lever in the o posite direction thereby returning the slide-rod 33 connected with the bellcrank 14 to its normal orstartingposition. In the present instance the return of the nipper and themovable shear-blade to starting position occurs during the fourth upwardmovement of the needle. The detainer 40, it is to be noticed, is notmoved back with the nipper and blade as clearly appears in the relativeposition of the parts shown in Fig. 5. It is returned to startingposition at the end of a cycle of operations when the pin 42" carried bythe detainer supporting lever is swiped by the enlarged bifurcated end48 of the slide-bar 49 and this swiping occurs when the slide-bar isactuated b the overthrow of the stop mechanism. Simultaneously with thereturn of the detainer the slide-bar 49, connected to the knife 50 bythe pin 55 carried by the bellcrank-lever 51, also engages the knifewith the work limb of the needle-loop on the rotating looper which itsevers close up to the material.

The above description relates to the construction its preferred form butcertain features thereof are obviously capable of variation withoutdeparture from my present conce tion of the broad underly ng invention.t will be obvious that the detainer for instance could be dispensed withentirely for certain classes of work in which it would be immaterial ifthe surplus end of thread becameentangled' in the stitches and marredthe appearance of the product. In short it is to be distinctlyunderstood that I do not wish my invention to be limited excepting asindicated by the definition of the invention in the claims.

Having thus set forth the nature of the invention, what I-claim hereinis 1. In a sewing machine making a predetermined number of stitches atan operation, a throat-plate, means for nipping the beginning end of athread against said throatplate, means for cutting said end comprising aledger-blade carried by the throat-plate, a eoacting blade carried bythe nipping means, and an independently operated cutter for severingsaid thread at the end of the stitching operation.

2. Ina sewing machine, automatic means for nipping a t read at thebeginning of a stitching operation, separate cutting means carried bythe thread-nipping means, and independently operated automatic means forcutting the thread at the end of the stitching operation.

3. In a sewing machine making a predetermined number of stitches in aprescribed path, in combination, means for nipping and cutting thethread durin the first part of the operation of the machine and fordetaining the cut-off portion, means for cutting the thread at the endof the operation of the machine, and means for pulling up the threadbefore it is nipped to prevent waste.

4. In a sewing machine, in combination,

means operating upon the beginning end of the thread to deflect, nip andcut it, and to detain the cut-0E portlon and additional cutting meansoperating to sever the thread from the supply after a stitchingoperation has been completed.

5. In a sewing machine, means for successively deflecting, nipping andsevering the thread at the beginning of a sewing operation and fordetaining the free end of the thread, means for releasing said free endat the end of a predetermined interval, and means for severing thethread at the end of the sewing operation.

6. In a sewing machine, means for successively deflecting, nipping andsevering the thread at the beginning of a sewing operation and fordetaining the free end of the thread, and means for releasing said freeend and again severing the thread at the end of a predeterminedinterval.

7 In a sewing machine, thread-deflecting, nipping, cutting and detainingmeans, a

neraaaa detain the end of the thread after it has been out 01f to keepit clear of subsequently formed stitches.

9. In a sewing machine, means for nipping and cutting the beginning endof the needle-thread, in'combination with a detainer acting upon thebeginning end of the thread to deflect it before and detain it' after ithas been cut off, and means for severing the finishing end of the threadfrom the supply.

10. In a sewing machine having a throatplate, a nipper for nipping theneedle-thread end against the throat-plate at the beginning of a sewingoperation, in combination with means for controlling the needle -threadmounted above the throat-plate and comprising a take-up, a tension, anda clamp arranged to grip the thread on the supply side of butimmediately adjacent the take-up whereby stretching of the needle-threadis materially diminished :and a tight stitch formed.

11. In a sewing machine having a throat plate, a nipper mounted formovement below and nipping the thread against the throatplate, a blademovable with the nipper and a ledger-blade cooperating with the movableblade and having a projecting finger yieldingly pressing the nipper andblade against the throat-plate whereby the needle-thread end may be heldand out immediately adj a cent the stitching point.

12. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanismincluding a reciprocating needle and a cooperating nonthread carryinglooper and work-clamping mechanism having suitable jogging movements, ofa free thread-end detainer, a nipper, and cutting mechanism all locatedbelow the throat-plate and operating upon the beginning end of theneedle-thread during the formation of the first few stitches.

13. A thread-cutting mechanism for sewing machines comprising athroatplate, a thread-nipper coacting therewith, coacting cutter-bladescarried by the throat-plate and nipper, and a thread-detainer coactingwith one of said blades.

14. A thread-cutting mechanism for sewing machines comprising athroat-plate, and a simultaneous movable nipper, cutter and severedthread-end detainer carried in superposed relation by said'throat-plate.

15. A. thread-cutting mechanism for sewing machines comprislng athread-nipper, a cutter and a severed thread-end 'detainer, means formoving said parts forwardly, means for retracting said nipper and cutterafter a predetermined interval, and means for retracting said detainerafter a further interval.

16. In a'sewing machine having a recessed throat-plate, movable nippingand shearing members mounted in said recess for gripping and severingthe beginning end of the needle-thread, said nipping member beinglocated between the shearing member and said throat-plate, and fixedrelatively to the former.

17. In a sewing machine having a throatplate, means for nipping thebeglnning end of the needle-thread and indepen ent means for shearingsaid end of the thread, said shearing means being provided with a tonguefor yieldingly pressing the nipper agalnst the throat-plate with whichthe machine is provided.

18. In a sewing machine having a throatplate in combination, a springnipper bearing against the throat-plate, a movable blade movabletherewith, a fixed blade cooperating with the movable blade to shear thethread, saidfixed blade having a spring tongue underlying said nipperand said movable blade. i

19. In a sewing machine, means for gripping the beginning end of athread at spaced points, means for severing said thread between saidpoints, and means for successively releasing said gripping means.

20. In a sewing machine, means for gripping the beginning end of theneedle-thread at two spaced points and means for severing the threadtherebetween.

21. In a sewin machine, means for gripping the beginning end of thethread at spaced points consisting of a nipper and a detainer, and athread-guiding notch on one of said parts.

22. In a sewing machine, means for gripping the beginning end of thethread at spaced points consisting of a nipper and a detainer, and meansfor severing the thread between the nipper and detainer.

23. In a sewing machine, means for gripping the beginning end of theneedlethread at spaced points at substantially the same time, and meansfor successively releasing said gripping means.

24. In a sewing machine, means for gripping the beginning end of theneedle-thread at two spaced points at substantially the same time, andmeans for severing thread between said points.

25. In a sewing machine, a throat-plate, and means located on one sidethereof for substantially simultaneously gripping the beginning end ofthe needle-thread at spaced points consisting of a nipper anda detainer.

26. In a sewing machine, means for substantially simultaneously grippingthe beginning end of the needle-thread at two spaced points consistingof a nipper and detainer, and means for severing the thread between saidpoints.

27. In a sewing machine, means for grip- -the needle-thread at spacedpoints, means for severing the thread therebetween, and means forsevering the thread from the supply.

29. In a sewing machine, means for gripping the beginning end of theneedle-thread at spaced points, means for shearing the thread betweensaid points, and means for severing the thread from the supply after thestitching operation has been completed.

30. In a sewing machine, means for simultaneously gripping the beginningend of the needle-thread at spaced points, means for shearing the threadbetween said points, and means for severing the thread from the supplyafter the stitching operation has been completed.

31. In a single-thread chain-stitch machine having -a needle andcooperative under-thread handling mechanism, means for intermittentlyclamping the needle-thread,

means for taking up the needle-thread arranged to operate upon thethread between the needle and clamp, in combination with means locatedbelow the throat-plate for nipping the needle-thread during the secondreciprocation of the needle and after the needle-thread end has beenpulled up close to the under side of the throat-plate.

'32. In a button sewing machine having a throat-plate, a reciprocatingneedle and co operating under-thread handling mechanism, a work-clamp,in combination, a nipper for gripping the needle-thread against thethroat-plate and a cutting mechanism carried by the nipper for severingthe beginning end of the needle-thread close to the under side of thework, a main-shaft, and common means driven therefrom for actuating saidnipper and said work-clamp. 33. In a button sewing machine having athroat-plate, a reciprocating needle and cooperating under-threadhandling mechanism, a work-clamp, in combination, a nipper for grippingthe needle-thread against the throat-plate and a cutting mechanism insuperposed relation to said nipper for severing the beginning end of theneedle-thread close to the under side of the imam? work, a main-shaft,and a common means driven by said main-shaft for actuating thework-clamp, the nipper and the cutting mechanism.

34. In a sewing machine having a needle and cooperating underthreadhandling mechanism, a throat-plate, and a main driving shaft, thecombination of a work-clamp, a nipper, a cutting mechanism in superposedrelat on to said nlpper for severing the beginning end of the thread,common means driven by said main-shaft for actuating the work-clamp, thenipper and the cutting mechanism, a stop mechanism, and a knife actuatedthereby to sever the thread from the su ply.

35. n a sewing machine having a needle and cooperating under threadhandling mechanism, a throat-plate, and a main driving shaft, thecombination of a Work-clamp, a nipper, a cutting mechanism for severingthe beginning end of the thread, common means driven by said main-shaftfor actuating the w0rk-clamp, the nipper and the cutting mechanism, astop mechanism, a cutter actuated thereby to sever the thread from thesupply, and a detainer movable forward with the nipper to grip thethread and movable backward to starting position by said stoppingmechanism.

36. In a button sewing machine having a needle, cooperating under threadmechanism and a throat-plate, the combination of a nipper, a movableshear-blade and a detainer arranged so that their thread-engagingportions are movable in a plane substantially parallel with thethroat-plate, and a fixed ledger-blade with a shearing edge in a planedling mechanism, a throat-plate, a workclamp, and a controller-cam forimparting suitable movements thereto, the combination of a nipper and ablade carried thereby located adjacent the throat-plate, saidcontroller-cam being provided with suitable cam-faces for advancing saidnipper and blade at the beginning of a sewing operation whereby thebeginning end of the thread may be gripped and severed during theformation of the first few stitches.

38. In a sewing machine, in combination, a nipper and a shearingmechanism for gripping and severing the beginning end of theneedle-thread, common means for actuating said nipper and shearingmechanism, and a detainer for gripping the free end of thread beyond thepoint where it is severed, said detainer being moved by said nipper togrip the thread end, and means for moving said detainer backward tostarting position.

39. In a sewing machine, in combination,

aevaaav a nipper and a shearing mechanism for gripping and severing thebeginning end of the needle-thread, common means for actuating saidnipper and shearing mechanism, and a detainer for gripping the free endof thread means for advancing said nipping and sev-v ering means in twostages at the beginning of a sewing operation to thereby during thefirst stage of advance deflect the free end of thread to one side of theneedle-path and control it durin the second reciprocation of the needlean during the second stage of advance to grip and sever the thread.

41. In a sewing machine having a needle and cooperating lower-threadhandling mechanism, means in fixed relation to each other for nippingand severing the needlethread, and means for advancing said nipping andsevering means in two stages at the beginning of a sewing operationwhereby durin the first-stage of advance the free end 0 thread isdeflected to one side of the needle-path and during the second stage ofadvance it is gripped and severed, the two stages of advance occurringduring the first and second reciprocations of the needle respectively.

42. In a sewing machine, a needle and (30- operating under-threadhandling mechanism, a work-clamp, a controller-cam for impartingsuitable jogging movements to said work-clamp, in combination with anipper and a shearing device having a movable blade both operating uponthe beginning end of thread during the formation of the first fewstitches, said nipper and said movable blade being actuated by saidcontroller-cam, and connections between said controller-cam and saidnipper and movable blade including a plural-armed lever for effecting atwo-sta e advance and a singlestage return of t e nipper and blade.

43. In a sewing machine, a needle and 00- operating under-threadhandling mechanism, a work-clamp, a controller-cam for impartin suitablejogging movements to said wor r-clamp, projections on said cam,

in combination with a nipper and a shearing mechanism having a movableblade both operating upon the beginning end of thread during theformation of the first few stitches, said nipper and said movable bladebeing actuated by said controller-cam, and connections between saidcontroller-cam and said nipper and movable blade including aplural-armed lever cooperating with said projections on the cam forefiecting a twostage advance and a single-stage return of the nipper andblade.

434. n a sewing machine, a needle and cooperating under-thread handlingmechanism, a work-clamp, a controller-cam for imparting suitable joggingmovements to said work-clamp, in combination with a nipper and ashearing mechanism having a movable blade both operating upon thebeginning end of thread during the formation of the first few stitches,said nipper and said movable blade being actuated by saidcontroller-cam, and connections between said controller-cam and saidnipper and movable blade including a plural-armed lever for effecting atwo-stage advance and a singlestage return of the nipper and blade, astop mechanism and a knife actuated thereby to sever the thread from thesupply.

45. In a sewing machine, a needle and cooperating under-thread handlingmechanism, a work-clamp, a controller-cam for imparting suitable joggingmovements to said work-clamp, in comlbination with a nipper and ashearing mechanism having a movable blade both operating upon thebeginning end of thread during the formation of the first few stitches,said nipper and said movable blade being actuated by saidcontroller-cam, and connections between said controller-cam and saidnipper and movable blade including a plural-armed lever for effecting atwo-stage advance and a singlestage return of the nipper and blade, adetainer for gripping the extreme end of the thread, a stop mechanism, aknife actuated thereby to sever the thread from the supply, said knifebeing provided with means for engaging the detainer whereby it maybereturned to normal starting position by the movement of said knife insevering the thread.

46. In a single-thread chain-stitch machine for sewing on buttons havinga needle and cooperating under-thread handling mechanism, a work-clamp,a controller-cam for imparting suitable jogging movements to saidwork-clamp and having beveled projections, in combination with a nipper,a shearing mechanism including a movable blade, a thread-detainer, and aknife, connections between said controller-cam and said nipper andmovable blade, including a plural-armed lever, a separable connectionbetween said nipper and said detainer, a stop mechanism, and a knifeactuated thereby to sever the thread from the supply, said knife in itsadvance to sever the thread being adapted to return said detainer tostarting position,

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

ALBERT F. FIFIELD.

